Saddell Abbey

There is a one-lane road (paved!) down the east side of Kintyre. Only 13 km north of Campbeltown, we came to an evocative and moving ruin: Saddell Abbey.

. Saddell Abbey was founded in the late 1100s by Somerled (progenitor of the MacDonald Lords of the Isles), or by his son, Reginald. The Cistercian "Grey Monks" worked these lands until the late 1400s, by which time the MacDonald Power had been broken by the King of Scotland. The Grey Monks left, and the Abbey, and its lands, were granted to the Bishopric of Argyll.



Aside from the stone remains scattered through a park like area, there is (within a well built shelter ) a very fine collection of grave slabs. Originally they marked graves of knights, bishops and monks.

Skipness Castle on Kintyre

Skipness Castle overlooks Kilbrannan Sound. During the wretched 17th century Wars, most of the Highland castles were destroyed, dismantled, altogether razed to the ground. Skipness avoided this fate through the efforts of its guardian who begged and pleaded, and claimed that it was in fact, his personal home.

You can find an extended essay about Skipness on my Knapdale People site. This time, we walked down to the shore to look at the St. Brendan chapel. St Brendan is famous for his voyages into the North Atlantic, and therefore was a special favorite of sailors. At the "Skipness Castle" page, I include a short bio of this Brendan.

Over Kilbrannan Sound to Kintyre

Well within sight of Arran is the Kintyre Peninsula. The trusty ferry wafted Mary, me and our behemoth of a Volvo across Kilbrannon Sound from Lochranza (which delights in the ruins of Lochranza Castle) to the tiny port of Claonaig.

The whole area was very busy: we managed to arrive during a popular yachting event, which means that we had a difficult time finding a place to live. However, the Knap Hotel came through, and we settled in Tarbert for a few days, using it as a base to travel south to Campbeltown and north to Kilberry.

Tarbert Harbour is beautiful and is overlooked by a castle ("Tarbert Castle"), built by Robert the Bruce after he 'made good', became King, and wanted a trusty fort overlooking Loch Fyne and the Sound of Bute. In my own site, Knapdale People , I have devoted a page to Tarbert Castle and its history.

Arran: the King's Cave

If it had been up to me, I would have taken to my bed while in Arran, because I had picked up a dreadful cold whilst in Glasgow. My sister, however, is a nurse, and is firmly of the (correct) opinion that physical activity is GOOD, especially when one has a cold. So, we marched off to see The King's Cave.

The King was Robert the Bruce, and the Cave was one of the places in which he and his followers hid while on the run from Balliol and the English. The caves can be found on Arran's west coast, directly across from Kintyre. We walked from a car park, through the usual West Highland wilderness, which is festooned with gorgeous scenes of far off houses, sheep, hills, coastal plains, etc... down a very steep decline, to the rocky beach.

Along this beach are natural caves. One of them, the one that sheltered Robert the Bruce, is protected by a very attractive gate.

It is here that tradition claims that the Bruce had his famed encounter with a spider. It seems that Bruce was dejected (he had lost a series of battles, and had been on the run for a long time, and here he was camping out in a cold damp cave), and on the verge of giving up trying to gain the Crown of Scotland. But then he saw a spider spinning a web on the cave wall, only to have it collapse from the wet slippery stone. But. The spider did not give up. It tried and tried yet again, until finally, the web held. It was this determined spider that inspired Bruce to continue his efforts against the English, until he finally led the Scots to victory at Bannockburn. And it is a foolhardy person who says "tradition" has no basis in Fact!

Arran: Machrie Moor

Arran sits between mainland Scotland and the Kintyre peninsula. We landed at Brodick, on Brodick Bay, which delights in the remains of an old castle, named "Brodick Castle." We found shelter on the opposite side of Arran, at Blackwaterfoot, a tiny place with a couple of nice pubs.

.As far as we were concerned, aside from the stunningly lovely scenery, Arran offers 2 outstanding attractions: the Machrie Moor Stones and the King's Cave.

Machrie Moor is a flat area not far from the road, with no less than SIX stone circles, while the immediate surrounding area comes complete with chambered cairns, a standing stone and more hut circles.

These arrangements of stones, in circles and in lines, can be found throughout the Western Highlands. It has been determined that they are thousands of years old, and therefore, have probably meant different things to different generations of inhabitants. Amazingly, so many of them still stand, in all their spectacular grandeur.

Compared to the Kilmartin Temple Wood array (more on this later), Machrie Moor is an unadvertised backwater, with an inadequate wee space for cars, and with little more than one of those informative plaques at the site itself. But make no mistake, this is a very impressive site in itself.

It's as wonderful as Stonehenge, but without the crowds!

from Glasgow to the Isle of Arran

As will become obvious, the west highlands is a land of waterways. We left Glasgow, were lost only once (in Greenock), drove south to Ardrossan, and then, crossed the Firth of Clyde on one of the many ferries owned by Caledonian McBrayne. And a very efficient ferry system it is, given that its crews are faced with multiple tourists driving rental cars "on the wrong side of the road", and perhaps, totally unfamiliar with this whole 'ferry thing.'

The Clyde river flows through Glasgow and Greenock. "Firth" means 'an arm of the sea', or an 'estuary', and is related to Norway's "Fjord".

On to Glasgow: an unexpected find!

My sister Mary arrived from Canada, and we spent a lot of time in Glasgow mapping out how to get out of Glasgow (she did the driving, thank goodness, and she didn't complain one bit, because she is a truly heroic person!). Anyway, the central interest for me was the Mitchell Library, which has lots of archival material available, as well as a whole raft of computers available for use of anyone willing to join the library (which is easy and free). I found a lot of info about the Free Church in the stacks, of course. And I met another guide whose main interest is Heraldry (I have to send her a note SOON)

But the huge surprise and joy was found at the end of a corridor: Blundell's Puppet Centre. It was magic.

The room was filled with books on puppetry of all kinds, and all around were amazing creations, which I hope that you will go and see if you ever are in Glasgow. I've put some of my photos onto 'picasa' which will show them as a slide show.
Go Here

Edinburgh and the Great Disruption of 1843

The "Great Disruption" was another Scottish religious upheaval. It culminated half a century of evangelistic fervor and missionary itinerants throughout the Western Highlands, all mixed with dissatisfaction with the Presbyterian Church's connection with the Secular Government. This bust portrays one of the leaders of this movement, the Rev. Thomas Chalmers. I found it in the National Museum of Scotland.

Also in this Museum, in a different section, there is a statue of Hugh Miller, a mason, geologist and writer. I would not have found the latter, except for the help of a wonderful guide who became interested in my quest to find out about the Disruption. Miller was one of the most prominent signatories of the 'demission' (or separation) from the Established Church of Scotland.

Why all this interest in some remote theological quarrel? Well, because of this, one-third of the ministers left their manses and livings to found a new church, the Free Church, an exodus which certainly affected Knapdale. My Knapdale Campbell and MacIntyre ancestors were a part of this revolution, as were many other people in the area. Many of these people stopped baptizing their children in the Established Parish Church, and therefore never appear in the obvious baptism records.

I have a stack of pamphlets written by the various sides of this Disruption (the originals are part of the Guelph Scottish Collection.) It concerned every level of government in Scotland, as the Established Church was the central purveyor of what we now call 'social services.' Even the Duke of Argyll wrote an essay (I haven't read it yet, the Victorians tend to be prolix.) At my Knapdale Site, in the section, "Leaving Knapdale", there are several letters written by Knapdale members of the local Free Church to members who had already left Scotland for Canada.

Edinburgh and the Flodden Wall

Almost directly opposite to the Covenant Martyrs' Memorial in the graveyard, is the Flodden Wall. Back in 1513, Scotland suffered a truly dreadful defeat at the hands of the English. As a result, Edinburgh built a wall around its town as a safety measure. The wall did not save Edinburgh from English (or any other) invasion. But, while it survived, it provided custom checkpoints.

As far as I know, only one part still exists, the part you can see within Grayfriars Kirkyard.

Edinburgh and Grey Friars Kirkyard

One of the most popular sights in Edinburgh is this statue of a dog known as "Grayfriars Bobby." His master is buried in the nearby kirkyard.

Although Bobby is a cute little thing, my main interest at Grayfriars was its Memorial to the Covenanter Martyrs. The latter commemorates some 18,000 Covenanters who died for their faith; and it also marks the burial place of some 100 Covenanters who were executed down the hill at the Grassmarket. The Covenant Movement dominated Scotland's history during the 1600s, and formed the iron spine of dissent against the Stuart attempts to replace Presbyterianism with an(English) Episcopal form of worship. Among the 'martyrs' mentioned on this memorial was the Marquess of Argyle who was beheaded in Edinburgh in 1661. The Tomb was erected 'anno 1706.'

Also part of the Kirkyard is a an area known as the Covenanter Prison, an open air enclosure in which captured Covenanters were mercilessly crowded. The few who survived were sent off the the West Indies as slaves. However, their prison ship sank off the north coast of Scotland. The inscription begins:
"Halt passenger, take heed what thou dost see/ This tomb doth shew for what some men did die..."

My terrific vacation in 2010: first, Edinburgh

I came across this band on a street in Edinburgh, and thought it was GREAT: drums and lots of energy. They sell cds, but when I attempted to purchase a bunch as Christmas gifts via the Internet, I found they only allow one at a time, which is a drag. However, their website is at
www.clanadonia.co.uk
and you can get a taste of what I experienced via the video here:
www.freakmusic.co.uk/bands/clanadonia (after a lengthy intro, they actually begin at the 2.26 minute mark.)

an addition to Knapdale People Site

I have added a section called (loosely) "Every Day Living" to Knapdale People. The major item here is a pdf of an inventory of houses done by the Poltalloch Estates, in 1798 and 1803. To help figure out what they are talking about, I have included some Auchindrain Museum photos of housing back in the day.

Also, note that I have figured out how to put links to other websites onto this blog! I have done the same at Knapdale People, too.

After Arichonan: the fate of the Allan McLean Family

One of Allan McLean's descendents informed me that he and his family - after being 'cleared' from Arichonan, North Knapdale - had emigrated to Ekfrid Township, Middlesex County, in Upper Canada. Furthermore, Allan and his wife, Catherine Campbell, were buried in Murray Cemetery, also in Ekfrid.

So, with the help of 2 Ontario researchers, I have been able to add a page to the "Leaving Knapdale" section! Lee Dickson (lee dot dickson at sympatico dot ca) found the McLean family in the 1851 and 1861 census', plus the Agricultural Census that went along with that information. Art Currie (concur at sympatico dot ca) sent me the transcription of the McLean gravestone, PLUS photos of the cemetery, etc. I have included all of this at Knapdale People, "Leaving Knapdale".

updating the website, making corrections

When I updated Knapdale People yesterday, I didn't notice the really egregious error I made on the 1st page of the Colin McGugan presentation/pdf. You see, I missed the part of the sentence which explained that "Nellie's Hill" in Ontario, commemorates a Nellie Campbell who carried a barrel of salt up that hill. "Preview" is definitely your friend!

This has necessitated my re-doing the pdf document, which takes a looooong time. But it is done. If you come across other errors, etc., let me know, OK?

about signatures (a followup) and leases and setts

if you want to know if one of your ancestors left a signature on an Inverneill Estates paper, one that I can photo for you, go to KnapdalePeople in the Inverneill People listing. The "tenants" therein listed will have signed a "set agreement" with the Proprietor.

In the early 19th century and before, most Knapdale people lived on agricultural "estates". SOME of them were "tenants", that is, they had leases or "setts", agreements with the landowner to farm portions of the estate. "Cottars" did not have this status. Lots of cotters were retired tenants; or relatives that were not 'tenants', but farmed some of the land and paid rent to the tenants for that privilege. The tenants, on the other hand, were people 'of standing', and played a role beyond that of simple renter. The Agreement made in 1802 for the farm at Cosandrochaid states:

(PRESENCE AT ESTATE BARON BAILIE COURTS)
The forenamed Tenants Engage to give ?Juste & presence to the Baron Bailie Courts held upon the Estate by the Proprietor or his aforesaid or other authorised by them as often as Cited thereto And to observe and fulfill all the lawful Enactment thereof for the Improvement of the Estate maintaining Civilization and good order in the Parish

Most of the tenants I have noticed were either the widows, the sons or the sons-in-law of previous tenants. In fact, if you check the "Kilmory Ross" agreement at KnapdalePeople, you will see that Duncan Campbell, son of John Campbell, expected to 'inherit' the right to be a tenant, because he was the ELDEST son (unlike Archibald). As I have mentioned, the Knapdale Estates were a very awkward combination of modern farming management with ancient tradition. It is no wonder that it did not flourish, financially or socially.

those "Sett" agreements in Knapdale

I have a microfilm reader, and have discovered that one can make a reasonably good photo of the signatures of the signatures to be seen on the Inverneill Estate papers. These were made on the occasion of the signing of the "Minute of Set of the Land of Coshindrochet," 24 December 1802. The latter has been transcribed at Knapdale People as well as within the McGugan Presentation.

The signatures are by: Duncan Campbell, the proprietor of Inverneill Estates; Mathew McBride (schoolmaster) and Donald McVicar (Estate's Baron Officer), both witnesses; and the tenants:

Neil McGugan, Ronald Johnston, John McGalloglich and Angus McGugan.

a new section added to Knapdale People Site

I have added a new section, and called it "Leaving Knapdale." The first item is a contribution by Colin McGugan. He is the descended from Donald McGugan, who left Knapdale in 1819 for Upper Canada. Colin made a presentation to the Ontario Genealogy Society in 1998, and has very kindly allowed me to put it in 'pdf format' on KnapdalePeople. Also part of this is a copy of a picture done back in 1929, by a relative of mine, Jack Ferguson, in commemoration of the "Landing of Argyllshire Highlanders, Caroc Nellie, New Glasgow, 1816."

As usual, I have added some 'people lists' for the section (including one of Ontario's New Glasgow Cemetery).

The photo used for the design portrays my great grand parents, John Campbell and Effie McIntyre. My own grandfather, Archibald John Campbell, is not in the photo. But the HOUSE is! And a great big house it was, too - which I think is one of the points the photographer wanted to make.

a very healthy Highland lady!

Tarbet, Monday, 17th September, 1838:

... Nothing particular in Court except the account which a worthy sempstress of Campbeltown, a witness, gave of her habits. For above twenty-five years she has scarcely ever been in bed after five. The first thing she does after dressing is, to go to a rock about a mile off, and take a large draught of sea water. She then proceeds about another mile, in a different direction, where she washes the taste of this out by a large daught of fresh water, after which she proceeds home, and about half-past six puts on the tea-kettle and breakfasts.

This is a healthy and romantic seeming morning. And therefore I regret to add that it was proved that three of four times a week, the rest of the day is given to whiskey, a result of early rising which will delight Jeffrey*, to whom morning, except before going to bed, is horrid.

(from Circuit Journeys; and "Jeffrey" was a friend of Cockburn's)

bagpipes at Arichonan!

I received this kindly note from Mid Argyll...

Hi Heather - I just wanted to thank you for all the work you have done on the Knapdale area. I have just recently found out that part of my family originated in Knapdale - which is a bit ironic as I live just 6 miles from Arichonan and it takes a web page hundreds of miles away to give me information on the settlement and those who lived there.

Having just visited the site this morning - where my son played a tune on his bagpipes in memory of our ancestors and all those who were evicted, also to all those firey women who put up such a good fight - it has intensified my sense of belonging. I was born and brought up in Mid Argyll and my ancestors, both my maternal grandmothers side - from Bridgend & Kilmichael Glassary and now I have found out that my maternal grandfathers side are from Knapdale - the Grahams and Blues.

introducing Lord Cockburn

Lord Cockburn (1779 - 1854), besides being a very substantial leader of mid 19th century Scottish society, was also the judge during the Arichonan Affray trial. Thus, in the hope that he said something off the record about that trial, I borrowed his book, "Circuit Journeys" published after his death in 1889.

Well, he doesn't say a thing about Arichonan. But it turns out that he has a LOT to say about Scotland, and the people therein. I am therefore going to put quotes from this book in this blog, whenever I find a gem I think you will enjoy.

The portrait of Lord Cockburn that I am using is from the cover of "Lord Cockburn: selected letters" edited by Alan Bell (John Donald, 2005.) The original, by Sir John Watson Gordon, can be found in the Scottish National Portrait Gallery in Edinburgh.