KnapdalePeople

A Campbell of Inverneill, on Canna

2010-10-26T16:20:00.001-07:00

This is a really good book! John Lorne Campbell was a scion of the Campbell of Inverneill family, and if it had not been bankrupt, would probably have succeeded his father as 'laird' of that estate.

In fact, it was John's grandfather, "Old Inverneill" who, at the beginning of the 20th century, placed an unsustainable debt upon the Estate. This fact was kept secret until John's father, Duncan, died in 1954. (Really!) This silence very probably helped destroy Duncan's first marriage (not to speak of his life), and certainly made John Lorne believe that his father had rejected him as a capable successor as 'laird' of Inverneill. He could not understand why he was never given responsibility in overseeing even parts of the Estate. In the meantime, Duncan worked as an engineer, fended off creditors, and rarely saw his John Lorne, or indeed, Inverneill. John Lorne's parents did not attend his marriage to Margaret Fay Shaw.

The story, then, is at heart, about a man who, crippled by his own introversion and sense of failure, became Scotland's leading Gaelic scholar, as well as the owner and finally (in actual fact) the 'laird' of the Island of Canna. Also, he and Margaret Shaw made a solid marriage that lasted until John died. In an attempt to protect Canna's future, John Lorne and his wife deeded Canna to the National Trust for Scotland.

I must admit that I have been cynical about the Gaelic spellings on street signs, and Gaelic language courses, and Scottish Nationalism, etc. However, this book showed me why such a movement is strong. The story of the Norwegian fishing industry being allowed to fish inshore along the Western Coasts, with no reaction by the British government would have certainly made me into a nationalist. It took 30 years of constant hammering by John Lorne and friends to make the government move on this issue, and by that time, the western islands' small populations had almost disappeared along with the fisheries.

Today, Canna has a population of 20 people. It's future is a fragile one, but it exists today and may tomorrow. The school has 4 children! And John Lorne's amazing collection of Gaelic folklore, songs and linguistics is on Canna, an invaluable source for scholars. The photo below is one of Margaret Shaw Campbell, and 2 Spanish girls who were close friends of the Campbells. The girl on the right is Magdalena, who curates the John Lorne Campbell Collection on Canna today.

(I might also mention that Perman cites my knapdalepeople website as the basis for the biography of Archibald Campbell of Inverneill. I am honoured!)

A Countess of the Covenant Times

2010-10-26T15:37:00.000-07:00

Another book has helped me understand the Civil Wars and their effects upon Scotland: a biography of Anna, daughter of Lord Seaforth, wife of Alexander Lindsay (Earl of Belcarres), and then, the wife of Archibald Campbell, 9th Earl of Argyll, the one who was beheaded in 1685 by James Stewart, King of England and Scotland. Anna's story is one of military success and failure, exile in Holland, poverty and fortitude. Her first husband was a strong Covenanter who fought against the Royalists; and then against Cromwell on the side of the King. It was all very romantic, and hugely expensive.

At the age of 32, and having given birth to 6 children, she accompanied her ailing first husband through the very primitive Highlands during the failed Glencairn Uprising, and then over the Channel to Holland. And every now and then, when she had a chance, she brought Belcarres from bankruptcy and disaster back to financial stability. She was quite a lady.

Her life gave me some idea as to the true disaster that fell on the Highlands in the 1600s. The fact was that Scotland could not afford to carry on the battles that they fought during the English Civil Wars. Its population was relatively small and its economy was primitive; it was necessary to hire and support professional soldiers who had fought in the European Wars; and weaponry was rapidly changing, while gaining in value and expense.

She was, by the way, the mother in law of Sir Duncan of Auchinbreck. She was, therefore, Sir James Auchinbreck's grandmother, he who fought on the losing side in 1745., and ended his life at Gairloch. A lot of 'history' at this time is about family connections.

Reading about the Covenanter Wars

2010-10-03T18:06:00.000-07:00

As a result of my work at the Lochgilphead Archives, I have collected material on the Argyll Militia and on the Free Church of Scotland.

The Free Church story has me wading through a history of the Covenanters and the Killing Times, in the 1600s. We all live in 'history' whether we know it or not; and so, to understand the Free Church, I find myself wondering about the history of the Presbyterian Church in Scotland.

My background on this topic is pretty much zero, and so the book is - for me - hard going, but I think, worth it. So far, I find that King Charles I of England and Scotland was a political moron, as well as being a liar and a faithless friend.

Auchendrain Outdoor Museum

2010-10-03T17:56:00.000-07:00

Auchendrain Museum lies between Inveraray and Lochgilphead. It was a working village, and was donated by the Duke of Argyll for purposes of study and tourism. It is beautifully presented, with everything from a pauper's house to a tacksman's home.

I have used a number of my photos from previous visits to illustrate 'everyday life' in the early 1800s.

One item of real interest to me, on this visit was this handloom. It was very probably built and used by a family of weavers, the McTaggarts. They lived and worked at Kilmory Knap through the 1800s.

Auchnabreck Hill Walk

2010-10-03T17:44:00.000-07:00

On a hill overlooking Lochgilphead and Loch Fyne, there is an "Auchnabreac Walk." We got lost a couple of times, but made it out to civilization finally.

It is a 'nature' walk, and has along it some very old and outstanding stone 'squiggles'. No one knows what exactly these carvings mean, but they are definitely of interest to those who study the prehistoric aspects of Argyll.

This is Mary, at one of these prehistoric centres:
"Auchnabreck" is of course, a reference to the Campbells of Auchenbreac. Apparently, the Castle in this area is long gone.

Gairloch, and Auchnabreac

2010-10-03T17:26:00.000-07:00

One of my interests is the last Campbell of Auchenbreac. Back in the 1600s, he was the foremost Knapdale landowner. He was the 2d in command to Campbell of Argyll. One of these Auchenbreacs led the Campbells at the Battle Inverlochy, and was killed by Alasdair (Colkitto) MacDonald at its conclusion. Going into the 1700s, the Auchenbreacs were very close to bankruptcy. This could be why (unlike the Duke of Argyll), they fought with the Jacobites in 1746. Official bankruptcy followed, and the last home of this unfortunate man was at Gairloch by Loch Fyne.

Gairloch Castle Marion Campbell dates the building to the late 17th century or early 18th century. It was probably intended as a lookout post.

Recently, it has been completely renovated, and made into a modern home.

Lochgilphead Free Church

2010-10-03T17:06:00.001-07:00

On the lochside street, there is the imposing stone Free Church. Inside, it is very lovely, with a warm light from its large windows and pale peach-coloured walls.

I attended services here for the 3 Sundays I stayed in Lochgilphead. My Campbell and MacIntyre ancestors were members and early supporters of this Church, as you can see by reading the Duncan McGilp letters on Knapdale People Website.

The Free Church is similar to the Orthodox Jewish Synagogue in that it maintains that its members must not work on the Sabbath. The 20th Century has been one of secularism, and the large numbers of people who built the Free Church after 1843 have dwindled. However, as the Rev. Morrison, pastor in Lochgilphead, noted in one of his sermons, the Christian church has lasted some 2,000 years, and continues to do so through thick and thin.

One of the debates current in the Free Church is whether to include pianos or organs as accompaniments for the songs. I was astonished and impressed by the people who led the singing during the service. Another factoid: the Free Church is not 'teetotaler', but - of course - does not encourage drunkeness either.

I am glad I attended this church, and probably, if I lived in Scotland, would be a member of the Free Church. Most of Canada's Presbyterians have become United Church, and (in my opinion) lost a large part of its backbone in the process..

Lochgilphead has a Golf Course!

2010-10-03T17:02:00.001-07:00

This is within the town, and walking distance from the shopping area.

Really, Lochgilphead is a very attractive town!

Lochgilphead

2010-10-03T16:50:00.000-07:00

Lochgilphead's architecture is of the traditional highland variety. This is the street that runs along the lochside. Note that the bus stop is right there, beside the Information Scotland centre. Very handy, that.

The main attraction of Lochgilphead, (for me) was the Argyll and Bute Archives. Its collection is among the best of its kind, and the Council has even provided the public with a small reading room. The archivists are extremely helpful, too. And, right next door, there is the excellent local library! If this sounds like I am gushing, well, I am: anything to encourage the Council to build on this archive. It is most useful for those interested in family history, etc.

Lochgilphead

2010-10-03T16:21:00.000-07:00

Lochgilphead is the most populous town in mid Argyll. The photo on the left shows you the lovely park-like atmosphere along that harbour.

There is a mysterious fountain on the other side of that white building. Murdo MacDonald, Argyll's historian, has recorded, in "The Kist 63", Spring 2002, page 13, the foll0wing information:

It commemorates Dr. Alexander Rodger Fraser, ship surgeon, who died 4th Sept 1894, in the Gulf of Suez on board SS Manora. He was the son of the Rev. William Fraser, Minister of the Free Church Congregation in Lochgilphead. Dr. Fraser was a graduate of the U of Glasgow..."

On the south side of the Loch, there is Kilmory Castle, which is now the headquarters of the Argyll Bute council. Around it is a truly lovely garden. Apparently, this was laid out in 1830. Wikipedia has an extensive description of this building.

The Crinan Canal lies on the south edge of Lochgilphead. It connects Ardrishaig on Loch Fyne on the east, to Crinan and Bellanoch on the Jura Sound on the west. Today, it is the path taken by yachts who travel through the West Highlands in summertime. On the other side of the canal lies a very old and historic estate, "Auchindarroch", or "Oakfield".

Keills

2010-10-03T15:49:00.000-07:00

Keills lies south of Tayvallich and faces Jura Sound. It is here that the a pier was built in the early 1800s. Cattle from Islay and Jura were conveyed across the Sound to this part of Knapdale. The pier, build with Thomas Telford's guidance, is, like its twin at Lagg on Jura, is gradually disappearing into the water. To refresh your memory, this is the pier on Jura:

This area was once part of the Clan McNeill territories However, by the early 1800s, this part of the clan had either moved to Colonsay, or become bankrupt. Obviously, ownership of this section of Knapdale was a valuable source of income, given the large cattle industry of the 1700s. But after Waterloo, there was a post-war depression that particularly affected the Highland's droving business. In 1831, John MacNeill Esq, "formerly of Oakfield, now of Gigha", gave up Keills, Keilmore and Keilbeg, and the Ferry and privilege of Ferrying, and the Mill built back in the day of Sir James Campbell of Auchinbreck, etc etc to his major creditor, the Renfrewshire Banking Company. By 1837, the latter bank had sold the estate of Neill Malcolm of Poltalloch.

On the other side of a ridge from the Keills farm, there is a very old, historical Keills Chapel, dating from the 8th century. Knapdale People site has along with its cemetery inscriptions, an archaeological description of this building. The very large cross inside the chapel shows St Michael trampling on the dragon, above a nest with three eggs symbolizing the Trinity, and a cleric holding a book. A copy of this cross has been erected outside, up the hill from the chapel.

Carsaig near Tayvallich

2010-10-03T15:16:00.000-07:00

Carsaig Bay faces Jura across the Jura Sound. The earliest Free Church congregation built a church at Carsaig. As far as I know, it has been demolished, although the Manse remains, as a private home. I'm very interested in the Free Church in Knapdale, and so was disappointed that the building has disappeared!

However, the cemetery is there. Alison Dawson did a fine job in recording the inscriptions in the old part of this cemetery. There was a puzzle, though: a stone enclosure with no entrance, and no inscription that I could see. However, Ms Dawson found her way inside, and notes that inside this ruin there is a mural:

This is erected over the remains of ARCHIBALD CAMPBELL OF STRONDOUR who died on Novr ye 13th 1719 in the 42nd year of his age, by the direction of DANIEL CAMPBELL OF CARSAIG and ALEXANDER CAMPBELL JUNR Mercht in Glasgow, his sons 1748.
(followed by inscription in Latin)

On the outside wall of this ruin, there is a memorial to John Campbell an Innkeeper and Sheriff Officer, with his wife, Agnes McNab. It has been erected in by his descendants in the year 2000. This particular John Campbell appears a multitude of times in my people data base. He was a merchant as well as an innkeeper, and as such did a lot of business with the Inverneill Estate. In 1803, he appears on a list of men eligible to be balloted for membership in the Argyll Militia. Also, he and his wife had a number of children. When you go to the data base, go to the 'advanced search' and enter his name and "Tayvallich".

We were lucky (again), in that the weather was very fine and sunny. This is a photo of the cemetery on our day in Carsaig:

Tayvallich

2010-10-03T14:38:00.000-07:00

Tayvallich surrounds a harbour facing east towards Loch Sween. When we were there, a ferry operated from this harbour to Jura.
The village's website is a good one, informative, with a listing of 'things to do' when you are visiting.

In the bad old days, it's geographical setting meant it needed plenty of 'duns' on the surrounding hills. "Tayvallich" is an English form of the Gaelic, "Tigh Bheallich", meaning "House of the Pass". It sits on the east end of a narrow piece of land that almost divides its peninsula in half. On the other side of this neck, less than a mile away, is Carsaig.

Marion Campbell's booklet, Mid Argyll, an Archaeological Guide includes a splendid description of the route from Bellanoch on the Crinan Canal south to Keills. She notes on page 21, that Tayvallich village is covered by 2 forts on the west, and one on the south. They are hard to find, but she said that Dun a'Chogaidh ('Fort of War' or a'Chrocaidh, 'of hanging' ) can be reached by scrambling up from a caravan-site at the north of the bay. I would say that if Marion Campbell found it difficult to find that dun, then it is REALLY difficult!

Inverneill Mausoleum, on Loch Fyne

2010-09-27T20:11:00.000-07:00

Major General Sir Archibald Campbell of Inverneill has become one of my favourite Knapdale characters. I have devoted a very large part of KnapdalePeople to this gentleman, and have been able to reproduce copies of family paintings on my site because of the great help from one of his (indirect) descendants, Neill Campbell. During the 19th Century, two proprietors owned most of Knapdale: the Campbells of Inverneill and the Malcolms of Poltalloch, and so to understand Knapdale, it is necessary to understand these Estates.

The Inverneill Campbells exemplified the Highland military aristocracy who - after Culloden - joined the British Empire and in doing so, made their fortune. Unlike the Campbells of Duntroon, the Inverneill family did very well financially, and managed to maintain their Knapdale Estates to the time of World War I.

The memorial inscriptions in the Inverneill Mausoleum are in the Knapdale People site. By reading those inscriptions, you can see the history of the British Empire.

With the help and guidance of Inverneill House's present owner, Gordon Hutton, we managed to track down the Mausoleum. This was a true adventure, and without Mr. Hutton, I would never have scrambled over that last fence (and he never laughed, either, he is a kind and wonderful gentleman!)

The area is really a deciduous jungle. In the photo on the right, you can sort of see me, within all the leaves and trees. There was once a path to the Mausoleum, but this has disappeared. Two large sequoias have grown up outside the mausoleum's outer wall, which helped Mr. Hutton guide us to the building from the road and across a couple of cow pastures and a small forest.

It was a lovely building, carefully planned and built, now well on its way to ruin, and it made me think of Shelley's poem, "Ozymandius."

Over the front entrance, there is the Campbell of Inverneill Coat of Arms; and on the back, there is a stained glass window. The latter has been broken. Plywood covers the hole.

St Columba's Cave on Loch Caolisport

2010-09-27T19:49:00.000-07:00

On the south western side of Loch Caolisport, there is a ruined Chapel and behind that, a cave. This is known as "St Columba's Cave"

St Columba (c520 to c600) was an aristocrat who founded Celtic Christianity in, among other places on the Irish Sea, Iona. This particular Cave is on the shore of that sea, and it is not ridiculous to think that, indeed, it was first used by that Saint.

Inside the cave there is still the remains of an altar. The cross scratched onto the wall a very long time ago has been emphasized with white colour in modern times.

Marion Campbell of Kilberry produced a lovely booklet in which (on page 13) there is a description of this site. I have reproduced her "Mid Argyll Archaeological Guide" in pdf form in Knapdale People. Before the Reformation, this Cave and its Chapel would have been a major pilgrims' destination.

Cladh a Bhile on Loch Caolisport

2010-09-27T19:47:00.000-07:00

We could not find this ancient burial ground. It is the one failure I most regret. Sorry.

Ormsary Estate on Loch Caolisport

2010-09-27T18:57:00.000-07:00

Because a branch of my ancestors left Ormsary Estate for Canada (in 1853), I have a special interest in this place on the east side of Loch Caolisport. If you check the 1694 "Hearth Tax Records" on my site (page 6) you will see that there are a number of McNeills living along that Loch.

Donald McNeill is noted as living at Drumnamuckloch in Kilberry Estate in 1694. In 1672, this gentleman had acquired Crear Estate by Charter from the 9th Earl of Argyll. Crear is south of Ormsary, on the coast, with (one presumes) access via the adjacent Crear Burn to the uplands behind Ormsary. On our visit to Ormsary, Lord Lithgow very kindly drove us up into that area. To me, it looked grim, especially as compared to the lush green along the coast. And the McNeills were known as a primarily sea faring clan.

Looking on the bright side, there is, a loch up there, Loch Nan Torran. And the Landranger map shows that the place is actually laced with burns. Former habitations were probably in those green areas you can see in the photo. At the time, the clansmen made their homes out of turf, not stone.

During Argyll's failed rebellion against James II of England in 1685, this Donald McNeill supported Argyll. Perhaps this is why we see him living in a one-hearth home in 1695.

Donald McNeill was the son of Neill McNeill of Arichonan. His eldest son, Malcolm, is also known as being "of Arichonan". It would seem that Donald spent the last years of his life working to move his clansmen from the Crear uplands. With the triumphant return of the Campbells of Argyll, he exchanged Crear for Colonsay Island. It was, however, his son Malcolm (of Arichonan) who actually led the McNeill Clansmen to Colonsay and Oronsay.

Arichonan

2010-09-26T10:37:00.001-07:00

Like Leac Na Baan, Arichonan was built at the top of a hill, presumably because you could see any approaching ship coming up the Loch. The buildings are now in ruins and empty of people. A study of Arichonan has been one of my own major projects, and you can see the results of all that here, in KnapdalePeople.

When I visited Arichonan in 2002, there was a large plaque on site recounting the story of the Clearance that occurred here in 1848. This time, in 2010, there was no sign, except one warning against falling stones (!). Further, there is no longer any sign on the road indicating that up that hill there is a ruined township. We found the trail, though. It is still obvious and mowed. On the other hand, there is a modern house farther down the road to the south, with a sign identifying it as "Arichonan Farm". Since my 2010 visit, I have wondered if we are now meant to use that path up to the ruins?

Castle Sween

2010-09-26T10:18:00.000-07:00

This is an impressive castle which dominates the sea approaches to Loch Sween. It was known as the "Key to Knapdale", and at Knapdale People, there is a whole section devoted to this fort. It was destroyed when the MacDonalds invaded Argyll in the 1640's, and never rebuilt. As you can see in the above photo, directly across Loch Sween is Taynish. Castle Sween is now a major centre for tourism. A flourishing trailer court lies next to it, and when we visited, there was lots of little boats in the water.

Road to Castle Sween

2010-09-26T10:04:00.000-07:00

On the way to Castle Sween, south from Leac Na Baan, there was a gate with a pair of coats of arms. They interested me because they were so fresh and new, and the portcullis reminds me of the one for the city of Westminster in England.

Standing Stones, Myths and Rituals

2010-09-23T19:09:00.000-07:00

Whenever you see some ancient pot described as a 'ritual' pot, you know that really, the archaeologist has no idea what it was actually FOR. So, 'ritual' is a handy hold-all for all the strange items of we dig up and wonder at, like, for example, the stone circles at Arran's Machrie Moor and the multitude of circles and henges and giant stones scattered over Kilmartin Glen. It's darned 'mythic' for sure....

Anyway, what should one think, when a married couple, living in northern Alberta, descended (a long way back) from West Highland people, build this stone circle in their yard just because they like rocks, big rocks, Standing Stone rocks, maybe of a 'mythic' kind:

This is Shane, delivering a birthday present to Sara:

And here is one of the more spectacular rocks, put up this August:

Leacnabaan (White Rock)

2010-09-22T20:28:00.000-07:00

Leac Na Baan, now a Bed and Breakfast, was in the past a farm/township, part of the Arichonan Estate. In 1798 and 1802, when Niel Malcolm of Poltalloch purchased the area, he inventoried the houses and other shelters now part of his holdings. At KnapdalePeople, on page 10, there is a carpenter's description of the houses in 1802. There were a number of people over several generations who made Leac Na Baan their home. If you go to the "People List" at Knapdale People, and then to "Advanced Search", enter "Leac Na Baan" in "Place" and enable some 500 entries, you will find quite lots of names, mostly Births and Marriages, but also people eligible for the Argyll Militia, etc.

Lying near the cup shaped depression is the remnant of a very impressive standing stone.

Dunadd, and Cup Shaped Depressions

2010-09-22T20:09:00.000-07:00

First, a closeup of Dunadd's "cup":

South of Kilmartin Valley, and of the Crinan Canal there is a township (now a B&B, White Rock Bed and Breakfast), known by the Gaelic name "Leacnabaan". Mr Hamilton, the proprietor, is an enthusiastic historian (as is his wife), and he has noticed several things about this place. When he looks north through a notch in the hills, Dunadd is clearly in sight. In fact, he believes that a small rise next to his home would have been ideal for placing signal fires (ie, like in the Lord of the Rings movie).

And then, close to a fallen standing stone at Leacnabaan, there is ANOTHER cup shaped depression:

Finally, there is a very similar cup shape inside St Columba's Cave on Loch Caolisport!

Interesting, No?? If anyone has archaeological/historical notes relating to these 'cups', let me know.

Dunadd Fort (Kilmartin Valley)

2010-09-22T19:30:00.000-07:00

Dunadd is a rocky outcrop a few miles north of Lochgilphead. There is little left of its past now. But back in the day, when the Scottish tribes came from Ireland and settled in the West Highlands (about 500AD), they fortified it ("Dun" means "fort"), and made it the capital of their country, which they called "Dal Riata."

This hill sits in the middle of a very large bog, Mòine Mhòr (Great Moss) now largely drained through the efforts of the Malcolms of Poltalloch, but through most of time, an excellent part of Dunadd's defensive system. From its height, you can look down on the Kilmartin Valley and the River Add... quite a lovely scene!

There is every reason to believe that men were anointed as kings on Dunadd's summit. You can still see a large, worn, stone which features a foot-shaped depression, as well a cup-shaped depression. At one time, the stone also displayed a carving of a boar (very kingly beast), and I suppose with a lot of imagination, its shadow still remains. I am sure I saw the drawing a few years ago on a previous visit, but time goes by and events happen, I guess.

The Vikings, on their longships, arrived on Britain's horizon in 791, and changed everything in the Western Highlands. Dunadd was no longer tenable as a capital. By 850 AD, around the time of King Kenneth McAlpine, the Scottish leaders had moved their headquarters east, away from the coast, to Scone, near Perth.

Kilmartin Glen and Carnasserie Castle

2010-09-20T19:51:00.000-07:00

Carnasserie Castle sits on a hill a couple of kilometers north of Kilmartin Village. It was built for the 5th Earl of Argyll about 1565, by the then Bishop of the Isles, John Carswell. This Earl was one of the foremost leaders of the Protestant Reformation; and John Carswell (an excellent Gaelic scholar) is famous for translating John Knox's prayer book into Gaelic, so that it could be read by the people of the West Highlands.

Above the main door, there is an oblong panel with a carving of a shield commemorating one of the (probably) most rancorous marriages of that century: the 5th Earl of Argyll, Archibald Campbell, and Jean Stewart (a half sister of Mary Queen of Scots.) On the left, there is the Campbell galley and the 'gyronny' of eight; on the right, a lion rampant for the royal arms of Scotland. Along the bottom, in Gaelic script, there is carved, "Dia Le Ua N Dubh(n)e" (God be with the O Duibhne). The Campbells were, in Gaelic terms, the "O'Duibhne". The couple managed to divorce in 1573, the year of Archibald's death.

During the terrible wars of the 1600s, Sir Duncan Campbell of Auchenbreck garrisoned the castle as a supporter of the 9th Earl of Argyll's uprising against James II (Stewart) of England. The MacLeans of Torloisk, etc. successfully besieged the castle, blew part of it up, and murdered Auchenbreck's uncle. Good times.

Kilmartin Gala and the Mid Argyll Bagpipe Band

2010-09-20T19:14:00.000-07:00

Luck was with us in Kilmartin, because we happened upon a Gala put on by the local people. There was a lot going on, of course, including a peregrine falcon...

And then there was the Mid Argyll Bag Pipe Band! This was a real treat as they put on a particularly energetic show. The Drummer girls were incredible. And the music was so well done. This band has been in existence in Mid Argyll (and Lochgilphead) for most of the 20th century and given the relatively small population of the area, is very conscious of the necessity to encourage young people to take part. This is absolutely evident in this video, which I totally recommend (it combines hip hop dancing with piping!!). Anyway, I purchased the CD and here is the cover:

Kilmartin Church and the Campbells of Duntroon

2010-09-20T19:06:00.001-07:00

Inside the Church there are a number of plaques on the walls, some remembering the Malcolms of Poltalloch who purchased Duntroon Castle in the late 1700s, and a couple remembering the previous Campbell Lairds. This one is particularly interesting, I think, evocative of the Scottish aristocracy of the 1700s, and their attempts to make their fortune within the British Empire:

Kilmartin Church & Poltalloch Graveslabs

2010-09-20T18:56:00.000-07:00

The church at Kilmartin is host to a Poltalloch enclosure with a display of medieval gravestones.

Notice the mention of the Loch Awe school of sculptures. The Campbells were strong supporters of indigenous art and music, and were fully at home within the West Highland Gaelic world. The Malcolms of Poltalloch are an extremely old family, and even during the MacDonald invasion of the mid 1600s, continued to support the Campbell clan.

Kilmartin Glen and Archaeology

2010-09-20T18:35:00.000-07:00

Kilmartin Glen is one of the most important archaeological sites in Europe. Super-ancient items are scattered from one end to the other of the valley. More than 350 prehistoric sites lie within 6 miles of Kilmartin Village. We walked almost the entire length of this place, taking photos throughout. There are plenty of photos on the 'net, so I will show you only 2 of ours: First, finding a 'henge' was a problem, since they tend to lie flat on the landscape. They were popular in neolithic times, and are dough-nut shaped. Being keen of eye, I found one, in a field not far from a much more outstanding group of standing stones. Here it is:

And here are a nearby group of Standing Stones. The resident cattle were using them as scratching posts and windbreaks. Given that the stones are VERY old, whoever set them up were serious builders!

Ford, and a Standing Stone

2010-09-19T17:32:00.000-07:00

Across the road from the Alpaca herd was a Standing Stone. The entire Kilmartin Glen is festooned with such stones (and cairns).

This particular one is broken. According to local information, it was broken at the same time (1879) as the collapse of the Tay Bridge, over the Firth of Dundee, on the other side of Scotland.

Amazing things, those stones.

Ford and the Alpaca Baby

2010-09-19T17:19:00.000-07:00

No, we did not go over to Oban this trip. Instead, we concentrated on Kilmartin Glen, Lochgilphead, and south of the Crinan Canal. This meant that we travelled a number of times on the road between Ford and Lochgilphead.

And, the highlight turned out to be an Alpaca farm!

We managed to time our travels with the birth of this little alpaca.

Ford, south end of Loch Awe and a Cairn

2010-09-19T16:51:00.000-07:00

After Jura, we found lodgings in the Ford Hotel, 12 miles north of Lochgilphead.

Ford lies at the south end of Loch Awe, a long narrow lake which lies parallel to Loch Fyne.

It was from Loch Awe and surrounding area that Clan Campbell established itself as a powerful family. In 1308, Robert the Bruce defeated the Clan MacDougall at the Battle of the Pass of Brander downstream from the loch.

Across the road from the Hotel is a genuineancient cairn! Yes! The kind that archaeologists love to excavate because they are often burial mounds. However, as far as I can gather, there has been no attempt to dig this up. Really.

Jura and the Sea

2010-09-12T18:57:00.000-07:00

It becomes obvious, as one travels around these islands, that in the old times, the West Highlands was a sea faring area. Today, aside from ferries, there are plenty of yachts, but no birlinns.

The Celtic Galley Association exists to encourage the skills of the sea, "including traditional boatbuilding, sailing, rowing, and seamanship. It also seeks to promote knowledge of the maritime history of the Celtic Seas and to enable a wide range of people to have access to their cultural heritage."

And, of course, there is a book written by Denis Rixson, about this maritime galley. It seems to me that there is, potentially, a really excellent team sport in birlinn racing.

Jura: Standing Stones

2010-09-12T16:04:00.000-07:00

Of course, there are standing stones on Jura. Jura, Island of Deer, by Peter Youngson, proved to be an invaluable guide for this part of the trip. We tracked down the one at Knockrome. There are TWO of them, according to Youngson, but we only found the one, and compared to the others, it was a very small standing stone (we were becoming jaded and picky by this time, I know.) There is a story that when passing between the 2 stones, local people of Jura speak of passing between 'the Two Juras' an act which would bring good luck.

The stone was in a boggy field, beside an airstrip, which itself lies beside an outstanding white sandy beach known as 'Corran Sand'.

Jura: the Telford Pier

2010-09-12T15:50:00.000-07:00

My principal aim on going to Jura was to see and photograph the pier at Lagg, across from Kiells, Knapdale. This was part of a drovers' "road", by which cattle were transported across the Jura Sound from the Western Islands to Knapdale, and thence to the Kilmartin tryst, the Falkirk tryst, and into England.

Thomas Telford, a very capable and famous Scottish civil engineer, designed this pier in the early 1800s. He was also involved in the building of the Crinan Canal.

Jura Landscape

2010-09-12T15:38:00.000-07:00

Aside from coastal 'microclimates', Jura looks like this:

Dominating the skyline are the "Paps of Jura". "Paps" mean "breasts." While we were there, we met a large retinue of athletes who were going to run up and over the Paps. They all looked very fit. In my opinion, the distillery tourists looked jollier.

Jura: the Hotel, and etc

2010-09-12T15:21:00.000-07:00

We stayed at the Jura Hotel in Craighouse, right beside the Jura Scotch Distillery. The latter produces "Superstition" Single Malt Whiskey which is one of my favourite kinds.

These are some of the trees outside of the Jura Hotel, by the way.

Jura: The Hotel, and its landscape

2010-09-12T15:10:00.000-07:00

I really enjoyed our stay on this island. It has a very small human population (apparently some 200 people), and a very large deer population. "Jura" means "Isle of the Deer". The people live on the east side of the island (the west is too rocky). On the north end is the Corryvrecken, an outrageously dangerous whirlpool between Jura and the Isle of Scarba. Apparently, it is in full roar during the winter months. Roads up in this part of the Island are rare and difficult. They advise four wheel drive, etc. So, Mary and I did not even try to go that far north. One person who did go up there, and spent the last years of his life in that part of the world, at "Barnhill", was GEORGE ORWELL. While there, he wrote "1984." Given the description of this isolated place, one has to agree that George was a hair shirt kind of guy.

Jura

2010-09-12T15:05:00.000-07:00

There is a small ferry that travels across the Islay Sound to Feolin on Jura.

The Feolin Centre is a nascent information centre for Jura. It is part of the Inver Estate, the southernmost estate on Jura.

Islay: Kildalton Cross

2010-09-12T14:41:00.000-07:00

Kildalton Cross is the only complete, unbroken, early Christian wheel cross to survive in Scotland. It was carved in the late 700s.

The Cross stands beside a roofless church (probably 13th century). Along an interior wall, there is a very imposing and large carving of a warrior. I don't know whether this was once a burial slab, on top of a grave, or was originally a wall decoration.

Kildalton Church is on the east side of Islay.

Islay: a Standing Stone!

2010-09-12T14:30:00.001-07:00

And here is another Standing Stone, north of Loch Finlaggan, beside the road to the Finlaggan Visitor Centre, in a field. Apparently, it was one of two standing stones, observed back in 1695 by Marin Martin (an early tourist who wrote a book of his travels through darkest Scotland). Two large boulders to the east may be the missing second stone. Caldwell thinks these stones may have once been a part of a neolithic monument, now buried. There is a mound behind the visiting centre, which was excavated in 1994/95. A burial chamber (or underground store associated with Iron Age houses) was found here, lined with boulders. (That holding up that stone is me!)

Islay: Finlaggan

2010-09-12T14:09:00.000-07:00

Finlaggan, an inland freshwater lake, was the administrative centre of the MacDonald Lords of the Isles. As can be seen by the air photo on the left, the nerve centre consisted of 2 islands: the larger with a chapel, etc., and the smaller, sort of an 'executive suite' for the very important leaders. "Finlaggan" is named after St Columba's contemporary, St. Findlugan. It is probable that the larger island, was, in Celtic times, a Christian centre.

The last of the MacDonald chieftains were executed in 1493 in Edinburgh, and there are only a few remains of what must have once been a bustling and wealthy community. The Lords of the Isles were a seafaring folk, so it is of interest that Finlaggan is inland, on a freshwater loch.

The Chapel was built in the 1300s by John I Lord of the Isles. It is ruinous now, but there are some well preserved grave slabs in the accompanying burial ground. The photo on the right is the grave slab of Donald MacGillispie.

Islay

2010-09-12T13:31:00.000-07:00

We travelled on yet another ferry from Kennicraig on West Loch, across the Sound of Jura to Port Ellen, Islay. At this time, there was a major tour of Distilleries, encompassing all ten of them on Islay, plus the one on the Isle of Jura. Therefore, it was really difficult to find accommodation. Through the wonders of Information Scotland, though, we found a room in the Jura Hotel. This meant that we spent more time on Jura than we had planned. In fact, neither of us were much interested in distilleries (although the participants we saw seemed to be having a great time!). I was the unofficial guide of our 'expedition', and so we focussed on Standing Stones and historical centres.

I must recommend our guidebook, a tattered paperback, by a genuine archaeologist, David Caldwell. It was most helpful, especially when we visited Finlaggan on Islay!

Kilberry Castle

2010-09-12T13:05:00.001-07:00

As we followed the road north into the heart of Knapdale, we arrived at Kilberry Castle. It was here that the historian, archaeologist and writer, Marion Campbell of Kilberry lived until her death in 2000.

Her nephew, John Campbell and his family, now live on this lovely estate. We were lucky we visited Scotland in the spring. The Western Highlands are truly lovely.

At the entrance of this estate is a display of carved burial slabs, etc., collected and placed within a shelter, for all wayfarers to see!

Stornoway and the Standing Stones

2010-09-12T12:55:00.000-07:00

Along the north side of West Loch Tarbert, there is Stornoway Bay (Canadians will be familiar with "Stornoway" as it is the name of the Ottawa residence of the Leader of the Parliamentary Opposition Party). There we saw two impressive standing stones in a field beside the road to Kilberry. These stones are really astonishing, as one wonders the 'why' and the 'how', not to speak of 'my gosh, they've lasted some thousands of years...

Campbeltown, Kintyre

2010-09-12T12:26:00.000-07:00

Campbeltown was once a bustling port, home to many very wealthy traders as well as landowners. Its buildings are even now, impressive in an early Victorian manner. As the Clydebank shipping industry died after WWII, Campbeltown is a quiet town on the south end of Kintyre.

It is a beautiful place, though, and its harbour is filled with yachts, etc.

Campbeltown has a successful scotch distillery, a very old one, too. It is the oldest independent family owned distillery in Scotland. Founded in 1828 on the site of Archibald Mitchell's illicit still, the Springbank Distillery is now in the hands of his great great great grand son, Hedley G. Wright.

Owned by Mr Wright's J&A Mitchell & Co Ltd, Springbank is the only distillery in Scotland to carry out the full production process on the one site. 100% of the traditional floor malting, maturation and bottling is done at the distillery in Campbeltown.

It produces the most hand made whisky in Scotland, with traditional production methods being used throughout the process, and human involvement at each and every stage.

It is the only distillery in Scotland to have never chill-filtered, nor do they add any artificial colourings to any of their single malts. It is the only distillery in Scotland to produce three different single malts, Springbank, Longrow and Hazelburn, using three different production methods.

Not very far south of Campbeltown lies the Mull of Kintyre. We did not go down there this trip, but I must share an interesting fact: "mull" derives from the Gaelic "maol", which means a 'rounded hill, bare of trees' OR a bare forehead, or shaved head. Which reminds me of MAELRUBHA, that Celtic Saint I wrote about in Knapdale People Site!

Saddell Abbey

2010-09-12T12:13:00.000-07:00

There is a one-lane road (paved!) down the east side of Kintyre. Only 13 km north of Campbeltown, we came to an evocative and moving ruin: Saddell Abbey.

. Saddell Abbey was founded in the late 1100s by Somerled (progenitor of the MacDonald Lords of the Isles), or by his son, Reginald. The Cistercian "Grey Monks" worked these lands until the late 1400s, by which time the MacDonald Power had been broken by the King of Scotland. The Grey Monks left, and the Abbey, and its lands, were granted to the Bishopric of Argyll.

Aside from the stone remains scattered through a park like area, there is (within a well built shelter ) a very fine collection of grave slabs. Originally they marked graves of knights, bishops and monks.

Skipness Castle on Kintyre

2010-08-05T19:30:00.000-07:00

Skipness Castle overlooks Kilbrannan Sound. During the wretched 17th century Wars, most of the Highland castles were destroyed, dismantled, altogether razed to the ground. Skipness avoided this fate through the efforts of its guardian who begged and pleaded, and claimed that it was in fact, his personal home.

You can find an extended essay about Skipness on my Knapdale People site. This time, we walked down to the shore to look at the St. Brendan chapel. St Brendan is famous for his voyages into the North Atlantic, and therefore was a special favorite of sailors. At the "Skipness Castle" page, I include a short bio of this Brendan.

Over Kilbrannan Sound to Kintyre

2010-08-05T19:17:00.000-07:00

Well within sight of Arran is the Kintyre Peninsula. The trusty ferry wafted Mary, me and our behemoth of a Volvo across Kilbrannon Sound from Lochranza (which delights in the ruins of Lochranza Castle) to the tiny port of Claonaig.

The whole area was very busy: we managed to arrive during a popular yachting event, which means that we had a difficult time finding a place to live. However, the Knap Hotel came through, and we settled in Tarbert for a few days, using it as a base to travel south to Campbeltown and north to Kilberry.

Tarbert Harbour is beautiful and is overlooked by a castle ("Tarbert Castle"), built by Robert the Bruce after he 'made good', became King, and wanted a trusty fort overlooking Loch Fyne and the Sound of Bute. In my own site, Knapdale People , I have devoted a page to Tarbert Castle and its history.

Arran: the King's Cave

2010-08-05T18:56:00.000-07:00

If it had been up to me, I would have taken to my bed while in Arran, because I had picked up a dreadful cold whilst in Glasgow. My sister, however, is a nurse, and is firmly of the (correct) opinion that physical activity is GOOD, especially when one has a cold. So, we marched off to see The King's Cave.

The King was Robert the Bruce, and the Cave was one of the places in which he and his followers hid while on the run from Balliol and the English. The caves can be found on Arran's west coast, directly across from Kintyre. We walked from a car park, through the usual West Highland wilderness, which is festooned with gorgeous scenes of far off houses, sheep, hills, coastal plains, etc... down a very steep decline, to the rocky beach.

Along this beach are natural caves. One of them, the one that sheltered Robert the Bruce, is protected by a very attractive gate.

It is here that tradition claims that the Bruce had his famed encounter with a spider. It seems that Bruce was dejected (he had lost a series of battles, and had been on the run for a long time, and here he was camping out in a cold damp cave), and on the verge of giving up trying to gain the Crown of Scotland. But then he saw a spider spinning a web on the cave wall, only to have it collapse from the wet slippery stone. But. The spider did not give up. It tried and tried yet again, until finally, the web held. It was this determined spider that inspired Bruce to continue his efforts against the English, until he finally led the Scots to victory at Bannockburn. And it is a foolhardy person who says "tradition" has no basis in Fact!

Arran: Machrie Moor

2010-08-05T18:22:00.000-07:00

Arran sits between mainland Scotland and the Kintyre peninsula. We landed at Brodick, on Brodick Bay, which delights in the remains of an old castle, named "Brodick Castle." We found shelter on the opposite side of Arran, at Blackwaterfoot, a tiny place with a couple of nice pubs.

.As far as we were concerned, aside from the stunningly lovely scenery, Arran offers 2 outstanding attractions: the Machrie Moor Stones and the King's Cave.

Machrie Moor is a flat area not far from the road, with no less than SIX stone circles, while the immediate surrounding area comes complete with chambered cairns, a standing stone and more hut circles.

These arrangements of stones, in circles and in lines, can be found throughout the Western Highlands. It has been determined that they are thousands of years old, and therefore, have probably meant different things to different generations of inhabitants. Amazingly, so many of them still stand, in all their spectacular grandeur.

Compared to the Kilmartin Temple Wood array (more on this later), Machrie Moor is an unadvertised backwater, with an inadequate wee space for cars, and with little more than one of those informative plaques at the site itself. But make no mistake, this is a very impressive site in itself.

It's as wonderful as Stonehenge, but without the crowds!

from Glasgow to the Isle of Arran

2010-08-05T18:12:00.000-07:00

As will become obvious, the west highlands is a land of waterways. We left Glasgow, were lost only once (in Greenock), drove south to Ardrossan, and then, crossed the Firth of Clyde on one of the many ferries owned by Caledonian McBrayne. And a very efficient ferry system it is, given that its crews are faced with multiple tourists driving rental cars "on the wrong side of the road", and perhaps, totally unfamiliar with this whole 'ferry thing.'

The Clyde river flows through Glasgow and Greenock. "Firth" means 'an arm of the sea', or an 'estuary', and is related to Norway's "Fjord".

On to Glasgow: an unexpected find!

2010-07-18T22:02:00.000-07:00

My sister Mary arrived from Canada, and we spent a lot of time in Glasgow mapping out how to get out of Glasgow (she did the driving, thank goodness, and she didn't complain one bit, because she is a truly heroic person!). Anyway, the central interest for me was the Mitchell Library, which has lots of archival material available, as well as a whole raft of computers available for use of anyone willing to join the library (which is easy and free). I found a lot of info about the Free Church in the stacks, of course. And I met another guide whose main interest is Heraldry (I have to send her a note SOON)

But the huge surprise and joy was found at the end of a corridor: Blundell's Puppet Centre. It was magic.

The room was filled with books on puppetry of all kinds, and all around were amazing creations, which I hope that you will go and see if you ever are in Glasgow. I've put some of my photos onto 'picasa' which will show them as a slide show.
Go Here

Edinburgh and the Great Disruption of 1843

2010-07-18T21:43:00.001-07:00

The "Great Disruption" was another Scottish religious upheaval. It culminated half a century of evangelistic fervor and missionary itinerants throughout the Western Highlands, all mixed with dissatisfaction with the Presbyterian Church's connection with the Secular Government. This bust portrays one of the leaders of this movement, the Rev. Thomas Chalmers. I found it in the National Museum of Scotland.

Also in this Museum, in a different section, there is a statue of Hugh Miller, a mason, geologist and writer. I would not have found the latter, except for the help of a wonderful guide who became interested in my quest to find out about the Disruption. Miller was one of the most prominent signatories of the 'demission' (or separation) from the Established Church of Scotland.

Why all this interest in some remote theological quarrel? Well, because of this, one-third of the ministers left their manses and livings to found a new church, the Free Church, an exodus which certainly affected Knapdale. My Knapdale Campbell and MacIntyre ancestors were a part of this revolution, as were many other people in the area. Many of these people stopped baptizing their children in the Established Parish Church, and therefore never appear in the obvious baptism records.

I have a stack of pamphlets written by the various sides of this Disruption (the originals are part of the Guelph Scottish Collection.) It concerned every level of government in Scotland, as the Established Church was the central purveyor of what we now call 'social services.' Even the Duke of Argyll wrote an essay (I haven't read it yet, the Victorians tend to be prolix.) At my Knapdale Site, in the section, "Leaving Knapdale", there are several letters written by Knapdale members of the local Free Church to members who had already left Scotland for Canada.

Edinburgh and the Flodden Wall

2010-07-18T21:35:00.000-07:00

Almost directly opposite to the Covenant Martyrs' Memorial in the graveyard, is the Flodden Wall. Back in 1513, Scotland suffered a truly dreadful defeat at the hands of the English. As a result, Edinburgh built a wall around its town as a safety measure. The wall did not save Edinburgh from English (or any other) invasion. But, while it survived, it provided custom checkpoints.

As far as I know, only one part still exists, the part you can see within Grayfriars Kirkyard.

Edinburgh and Grey Friars Kirkyard

2010-07-18T21:19:00.001-07:00

One of the most popular sights in Edinburgh is this statue of a dog known as "Grayfriars Bobby." His master is buried in the nearby kirkyard.

Although Bobby is a cute little thing, my main interest at Grayfriars was its Memorial to the Covenanter Martyrs. The latter commemorates some 18,000 Covenanters who died for their faith; and it also marks the burial place of some 100 Covenanters who were executed down the hill at the Grassmarket. The Covenant Movement dominated Scotland's history during the 1600s, and formed the iron spine of dissent against the Stuart attempts to replace Presbyterianism with an(English) Episcopal form of worship. Among the 'martyrs' mentioned on this memorial was the Marquess of Argyle who was beheaded in Edinburgh in 1661. The Tomb was erected 'anno 1706.'

Also part of the Kirkyard is a an area known as the Covenanter Prison, an open air enclosure in which captured Covenanters were mercilessly crowded. The few who survived were sent off the the West Indies as slaves. However, their prison ship sank off the north coast of Scotland. The inscription begins:
"Halt passenger, take heed what thou dost see/ This tomb doth shew for what some men did die..."

My terrific vacation in 2010: first, Edinburgh

2010-07-18T21:12:00.000-07:00

I came across this band on a street in Edinburgh, and thought it was GREAT: drums and lots of energy. They sell cds, but when I attempted to purchase a bunch as Christmas gifts via the Internet, I found they only allow one at a time, which is a drag. However, their website is at
www.clanadonia.co.uk
and you can get a taste of what I experienced via the video here:
www.freakmusic.co.uk/bands/clanadonia (after a lengthy intro, they actually begin at the 2.26 minute mark.)

an addition to Knapdale People Site

2007-11-21T11:34:00.000-08:00

I have added a section called (loosely) "Every Day Living" to Knapdale People. The major item here is a pdf of an inventory of houses done by the Poltalloch Estates, in 1798 and 1803. To help figure out what they are talking about, I have included some Auchindrain Museum photos of housing back in the day.

Also, note that I have figured out how to put links to other websites onto this blog! I have done the same at Knapdale People, too.

After Arichonan: the fate of the Allan McLean Family

2007-10-31T21:07:00.001-07:00

One of Allan McLean's descendents informed me that he and his family - after being 'cleared' from Arichonan, North Knapdale - had emigrated to Ekfrid Township, Middlesex County, in Upper Canada. Furthermore, Allan and his wife, Catherine Campbell, were buried in Murray Cemetery, also in Ekfrid.

So, with the help of 2 Ontario researchers, I have been able to add a page to the "Leaving Knapdale" section! Lee Dickson (lee dot dickson at sympatico dot ca) found the McLean family in the 1851 and 1861 census', plus the Agricultural Census that went along with that information. Art Currie (concur at sympatico dot ca) sent me the transcription of the McLean gravestone, PLUS photos of the cemetery, etc. I have included all of this at Knapdale People, "Leaving Knapdale".

updating the website, making corrections

2007-10-28T12:45:00.001-07:00

When I updated Knapdale People yesterday, I didn't notice the really egregious error I made on the 1st page of the Colin McGugan presentation/pdf. You see, I missed the part of the sentence which explained that "Nellie's Hill" in Ontario, commemorates a Nellie Campbell who carried a barrel of salt up that hill. "Preview" is definitely your friend!

This has necessitated my re-doing the pdf document, which takes a looooong time. But it is done. If you come across other errors, etc., let me know, OK?

about signatures (a followup) and leases and setts

2007-10-28T12:18:00.000-07:00

if you want to know if one of your ancestors left a signature on an Inverneill Estates paper, one that I can photo for you, go to KnapdalePeople in the Inverneill People listing. The "tenants" therein listed will have signed a "set agreement" with the Proprietor.

In the early 19th century and before, most Knapdale people lived on agricultural "estates". SOME of them were "tenants", that is, they had leases or "setts", agreements with the landowner to farm portions of the estate. "Cottars" did not have this status. Lots of cotters were retired tenants; or relatives that were not 'tenants', but farmed some of the land and paid rent to the tenants for that privilege. The tenants, on the other hand, were people 'of standing', and played a role beyond that of simple renter. The Agreement made in 1802 for the farm at Cosandrochaid states:

(PRESENCE AT ESTATE BARON BAILIE COURTS)
The forenamed Tenants Engage to give ?Juste & presence to the Baron Bailie Courts held upon the Estate by the Proprietor or his aforesaid or other authorised by them as often as Cited thereto And to observe and fulfill all the lawful Enactment thereof for the Improvement of the Estate maintaining Civilization and good order in the Parish

Most of the tenants I have noticed were either the widows, the sons or the sons-in-law of previous tenants. In fact, if you check the "Kilmory Ross" agreement at KnapdalePeople, you will see that Duncan Campbell, son of John Campbell, expected to 'inherit' the right to be a tenant, because he was the ELDEST son (unlike Archibald). As I have mentioned, the Knapdale Estates were a very awkward combination of modern farming management with ancient tradition. It is no wonder that it did not flourish, financially or socially.

those "Sett" agreements in Knapdale

2007-10-27T13:11:00.001-07:00

I have a microfilm reader, and have discovered that one can make a reasonably good photo of the signatures of the signatures to be seen on the Inverneill Estate papers. These were made on the occasion of the signing of the "Minute of Set of the Land of Coshindrochet," 24 December 1802. The latter has been transcribed at Knapdale People as well as within the McGugan Presentation.

The signatures are by: Duncan Campbell, the proprietor of Inverneill Estates; Mathew McBride (schoolmaster) and Donald McVicar (Estate's Baron Officer), both witnesses; and the tenants:

Neil McGugan, Ronald Johnston, John McGalloglich and Angus McGugan.

a new section added to Knapdale People Site

2007-10-27T13:01:00.000-07:00

I have added a new section, and called it "Leaving Knapdale." The first item is a contribution by Colin McGugan. He is the descended from Donald McGugan, who left Knapdale in 1819 for Upper Canada. Colin made a presentation to the Ontario Genealogy Society in 1998, and has very kindly allowed me to put it in 'pdf format' on KnapdalePeople. Also part of this is a copy of a picture done back in 1929, by a relative of mine, Jack Ferguson, in commemoration of the "Landing of Argyllshire Highlanders, Caroc Nellie, New Glasgow, 1816."

As usual, I have added some 'people lists' for the section (including one of Ontario's New Glasgow Cemetery).

The photo used for the design portrays my great grand parents, John Campbell and Effie McIntyre. My own grandfather, Archibald John Campbell, is not in the photo. But the HOUSE is! And a great big house it was, too - which I think is one of the points the photographer wanted to make.

a very healthy Highland lady!

2007-10-15T13:11:00.000-07:00

Tarbet, Monday, 17th September, 1838:

... Nothing particular in Court except the account which a worthy sempstress of Campbeltown, a witness, gave of her habits. For above twenty-five years she has scarcely ever been in bed after five. The first thing she does after dressing is, to go to a rock about a mile off, and take a large draught of sea water. She then proceeds about another mile, in a different direction, where she washes the taste of this out by a large daught of fresh water, after which she proceeds home, and about half-past six puts on the tea-kettle and breakfasts.

This is a healthy and romantic seeming morning. And therefore I regret to add that it was proved that three of four times a week, the rest of the day is given to whiskey, a result of early rising which will delight Jeffrey*, to whom morning, except before going to bed, is horrid.

(from Circuit Journeys; and "Jeffrey" was a friend of Cockburn's)

bagpipes at Arichonan!

2007-10-15T13:07:00.000-07:00

I received this kindly note from Mid Argyll...

Hi Heather - I just wanted to thank you for all the work you have done on the Knapdale area. I have just recently found out that part of my family originated in Knapdale - which is a bit ironic as I live just 6 miles from Arichonan and it takes a web page hundreds of miles away to give me information on the settlement and those who lived there.

Having just visited the site this morning - where my son played a tune on his bagpipes in memory of our ancestors and all those who were evicted, also to all those firey women who put up such a good fight - it has intensified my sense of belonging. I was born and brought up in Mid Argyll and my ancestors, both my maternal grandmothers side - from Bridgend & Kilmichael Glassary and now I have found out that my maternal grandfathers side are from Knapdale - the Grahams and Blues.

introducing Lord Cockburn

2007-10-15T12:51:00.000-07:00

Lord Cockburn (1779 - 1854), besides being a very substantial leader of mid 19th century Scottish society, was also the judge during the Arichonan Affray trial. Thus, in the hope that he said something off the record about that trial, I borrowed his book, "Circuit Journeys" published after his death in 1889.

Well, he doesn't say a thing about Arichonan. But it turns out that he has a LOT to say about Scotland, and the people therein. I am therefore going to put quotes from this book in this blog, whenever I find a gem I think you will enjoy.

The portrait of Lord Cockburn that I am using is from the cover of "Lord Cockburn: selected letters" edited by Alan Bell (John Donald, 2005.) The original, by Sir John Watson Gordon, can be found in the Scottish National Portrait Gallery in Edinburgh.

Arichonan Photos

2007-09-24T09:22:00.000-07:00

Some lovely photos of Arichonan are up on the web right now! The first is wonderful, taken from above the settlement remains, featuring the view of Loch Sween (which was makes me think that the original settlers were thinking hard about defense, when they founded Arichonan ... for Vikings, etc were sea-going slave traders back in the day).

Loch Sween, again

2007-09-18T10:33:00.000-07:00

while I am working on a new entry at Knapdale People website, on "Leaving Knapdale", as well as adding to the section on Major General Sir Archibald Campbell of Inverneill, good ol' Google sent me a story from people who sailed on Loch Sween, and put into "The Fairy Isle." Evocative, eh? And there is a photo, too. This is their story:

"We spent a week in one anchorage, just reading, going for walks and doing small DIY tasks around the boat. We met a single-hander who invited us over for a drink, and saw some freinds from Ardfern, but most nights we were the only boat there. The Fairy Isles is a wonderful location, tucked away near the head of Loch Sween, it offers a sheltered anchorage from all but north-easterlies, and has a gooey, muddy seabed. We dropped our Rocna anchor there one Friday, and after having been blown almost round the compass in the course of the week, hauled it up from the same spot the next Friday morning.
That was the start of a brisk sail back home, as the wind had gone round to the north west, and we beat all the way up the Sound of Jura assisted by a strong tide, which gave us five 'free' miles on the journey. We used the engine to get into the Sound, as the swell was coming straight into the mouth of Loch Sween.
Glad we came home on Friday though, as the weather otherwise over the weekend was stormy, rainy and thoroughly dreich!"

sailing Loch Sween

2007-09-09T23:08:00.000-07:00

Sharing his sailing trip up Loch Sween... a nice description for those of you who are sailors:

....After a leisurely breakfast we launch from the slipway by the jetty in Tayvallich and leave the car in the space opposite the shop. The weather is dull but dry as we leave the perfectly sheltered harbour and cut across the mouth of Scotnish on route to the Fairy Isles.This is a really incredible place, an a rea of shallow banks and lagoons. The perfect place for a canoe to explore....

travelling to Knapdale

2007-09-08T13:53:00.000-07:00

Google lets me know when Knapdale and Arichonan and etc come up on the 'net. Yesterday, they noted an interesting site for you who may want to travel to the Knapdale area. The website is called, "Page Most", and you can find it, with a handy-dandy map, here. It's worth a good look, as it pinpoints surrounding attractions, all placed on a map with roads and everything!

addendum to The Hearth Tax entry (below)

2007-09-04T11:28:00.000-07:00

I did some more thinking (always a Good Thing), and compared the Hearth Tax list with known population figures, and... added the following to Knapdale People, "Hearth Tax of 1694" section:

"However, if you look at the "Statistical Accounts of Scotland",(3) completed a century later, there are actual population figures given by each Parish Minister. Accordingly, we find that in 1796, South Knapdale's population was 1524 souls; and in 1799, North Knapdale's population was 1009, for a total of 2533 souls in Knapdale as a whole. Now, the Hearth Tax list includes a number of villages in Kilberry Parish; but it misses places like Arichonan, up near Bellanoch. There are a total of 383 dwellings on that 1694 list. If there were some 2,800 people - at most - in Knapdale, that indicates some 7 people per dwelling... which is not out of line, I think, given my impression of the 'huddled masses' of my ancestors, having porridge around a centre hearth.
So, just maybe, this Hearth Tax List is a reasonably faithful picture of Knapdale in 1694!"

Argyll and Bute Archives

2007-09-03T19:09:00.001-07:00

Mr. Ian MacDonald, a historian of Kintyre and Knapdale, and a great help to all family historians, has this to say in a letter:

"We have not done much since the Archives were shut down by the A-B Council. A very retrograde step taken by people not interested in Argyll's past history. Many have complained from abroad about its loss. It opens but consultation charges presently operating scare would-be ancestral researchers...."

It is a great pity that Argyll cannot see that a well supported Archive would attract people from around the world, and keep them in the area for longer than the 15 minutes it takes to buy petrol in Lochgilphead, while travelling to Oban. Not many areas possesses the history that is appealing to so many people from North America and Australia and New Zealand, etc. Genealogy is the most popular (legal) topic on the internet, and people are willing to travel around the world, to spend time in the lands in which their ancestors lived.

I worked in tourism for almost 2 decades, and cannot understand Argyll/Bute's lack of interest in the 'mother lode' that is sitting right there in their Archives. Oh well...

Taxing Knapdale in 1694

2007-09-03T19:02:00.000-07:00

And why is this interesting? Well, things were different then.... spelling, names, poverty, etc. I have 2 data bases on this: one by modern surname; and one by modern place.
and
ALSO, a pdf of the relevant pages, with typed transcriptions of each; and a map showing the layout of the various landowners (Campbell of Auchinbreck was the biggest landowner in 1694; it seems he backed Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745 and was down and out and very poor when he died...his story is a tragedy, I think, and I will add what little I can find out about him, in the near future.)

Given that almost everyone on the list has only 1 hearth (there is a McAlister with 5, of course), I would say that there were lots of poor people in Knapdale in 1694.

I want to add two more pdf's to this section: an inventory done for the Poltalloch Estate in 1800; and the report of the S Knapdale Parochial Board (dealing with the poor, the lunatic, etc.) from 1845 to 1855. So the new section will be about.. people.

So, go to Knapdale People and check out the handwriting of the taxgatherers in 1694!

Inverneill Sailing Ship

2007-08-27T16:43:00.000-07:00

A photo of the sailing ship Inverneill has appeared on the 'Web, posted by Australia's Victoria State Library. They say they have 3 negatives on glass, and would like to hear from anyone who knows about this vessel....

Hearth Taxes and Auchinbreck

2007-08-26T12:17:00.000-07:00

The "Hearth Tax" of 1694 was an attempt of the central government to tax the Scottish population according to the number of hearths in their dwellings. The attempt foundered on the reality of the central government's weakness in the face of the Clan organization of the highlands. You need roads and addresses to even start to properly tax the peasantry. And Knapdale had none of these modern conveniences in 1694.

HOWEVER. The Hearth Tax lists have proven to be a great source of names and places, ie for genealogists and historians. For my website, at Knapdale People, I am working on the hearth tax records that exist. The Argyll and Bute archive has provided a typed list of said pages; the local LDS has provided a microfilm of said (tattered) records; and Ian MacDonald, one of the great western highland historians, has provided me with modern versions of the 1694 surnames.

So, I have been adding said names etc to my data base, and thought to add this to the Website. But. There is this matter of Campbell of Auchinbreck. Large numbers of farms belonged to this gentleman. But. He joined the losing side in 1745, and he lost his properties after Culloden.

So. Where is Auchinbreck? (I found it, via 'mapquest.') And what is there to say about Knapdale when one of its major landowners fell into bankruptcy in the mid 1700s? The best story of this time is by Alexander Fraser, "North Knapdale in the XVII and XVIIIth centuries", published in Oban, 1964. I found a copy of this in the Guelph University Library and photocopied the relevant pages...

And . I realize I must re-do the front page of the Site, to make things ever more clear to my readers. This will take a couple of days.

an interchange on Scotland and Slavery...

2007-08-24T15:28:00.000-07:00

... a journal of scottish studies asked me to write something on Knapdale. I am having trouble with doing that, not just because of Sloth, but because I am puzzled as to what approach to take re slave owning Knapdalians, pre Civil War, USA, ie, the letters of that McMillan (among the Donald McGilp letters at Knapdale People website). I am of the school that thinks one should be cautious of judging one's predecessors, especially since they are no longer able to explain themselves. It is so easy to point and denounce those of another time and place... and so difficult to figure out where we in our time may be committing atrocities ourselves (with the best will in the world, of course.)

No, I do not think that it is possible to morally justify owning slaves. On the other hand, such people as that McMillan did not think of themselves as hypocritical: he was, in his own eyes, a good, God fearing Christian. It is more interesting (to me) to figure out how he thought. And what he thought, as all his work disappeared during the ensuing Civil War (or did it disappear? did he continue to prosper? He had sons. Did they survive to 1865? )
Heather

FROM A MCGUGAN CORRESPONDENT:

Very interesting to see your musings on Archibald McMillan. The family history says that "There is little doubt that Archibald S. McMillan took a severe economic loss as a result of the emancipation of slaves following the War Between the States." (McMillan Family History by John Q. Edwards, III) Archibald died in 1867, but has many descendants in North Carolina (some of which I have met.)
Colin

AND, From a descendent of the Blue Brothers, who emigrated from North Knapdale in 1803, about slavery.
Now, about that slavery thing...something of interest for you. Malcolm, John, and Daniel Blue emigrated from North Knapdale to the USA with their families en masse in 1803. Malcolm and John settled in New York State which was a free state and they did not own slaves. Daniel Blue settled in North Carolina and did own slaves. I do not know why they chose to settle in different states, but perhaps discomfort or comfort with slavery played a part. These three men had a younger brother named Dugald Blue who originally settled in the southern US in 1804, but was so troubled by the institution of slavery that after a short time he moved to be near his brothers in Upstate New York. I think we can judge the people of that time about their views on slavery because they judged each other on it, struggled with its morality, and some concluded it was immoral. Thought you would find that interesting.

Scotland and the Transatlantic Slave Trade (II)

2007-08-24T15:00:00.000-07:00

The Scottish Local History Forum is presenting a conference on "Scotland and Slavery", Saturday, 29 September, 10 am - 5 pm, at the AK Bell Library, Perth.

The papers presented will be:
The Sugar Plantocracy of Scotland. Dr. Eric Graham

The Anti Slave Trade Tour of William Dickson in 1792. Dr. Iain Whyte.

Glasgow University, Slavery and Abolition: An Untold Story. Lesley Richmond, U of Glasgow Library.

Scotland and the Slave Trade: South West Connections. Dr. Lizanne Henderson, U of Glasgow Crichton Campus.

Servitude or Slavery? Scottish servants in the early colonies. Sheila Millar, Local Studies Librarian, East Lothian.

'And some have slaves thrust upon them': early 19th Century letters between Paxton, Berwickshire, and Grenada. Sonia Baker, Editor, 4th Statistical Account of East Lothian.

The conference fee is 18 pounds for members of the SLHF and 20 pounds for non members. This includes a buffet lunch. Closing date for applications: 21 September, 2007.

Contact:
Mrs. Doris Williamson, SLHF, c/o Scottish History, School of History and Classics, U of Edinburgh, 17 Buccleuch Place, Edinburgh. EH8 9LN
tel: 0131 669 8252 doris.williamson@lineone.net

Scotland and the Transatlantic Slave Trade (I)

2007-08-24T14:52:00.000-07:00

Dumfries Museum, from 1 September to 6 October:

An exhibition opens here to mark the 200th Anniversary of the Abolition of the transatlantic slave trade in Britain. Frances Wilkins is curating this event, which will coincide with her new book on the subject.

She has written other books about west highland shenanigans: "Strathclyde's Smuggling Story;" "Scottish Customs & Excise Records with particular reference to Strathclyde from 1707 onwards ;" "The Isle of Man in Smuggling History;" and "Family Histories in Scottish Customs Records." All of these have been published by Wyre Forest Press, 8 Mill Close, Blakedown, Kidderminster, Worcestershire, DY103NQ.

more on the Arichonan Blue/McGuirmans

2007-08-20T14:39:00.000-07:00

Among the items I included in my book on "Arichonan Farm" are the people mentioned in a housing inventory done in 1798 and 1802, by the new owner of the Estates, Malcolm of Poltalloch. There were 4 tenants at the time: Donald Blue, Malcolm Johnson, Malcolm McLean and Niel McMillan.

Donald Blue/McGuirman lived in a "dwelling house, good, 4 couples; a Barn, 1 couple; and 1 Bothie, 2 couples" *
His wife was Flory Lamont (McIlchombie), and they had 6 children. His brother John was also at the farm. John's wife was Mary McLean, and they had 3 children at the time.

The man taking the inventory noted that, on Arichonan Farm, "the Houses in this farm and mostly on this Estate was built by the Tenants themselves and by the way, they were not built right at first."

*"couple": these are the main supports for the roof, consisting of two lengths of timber, and attached at the apex of the roof. The number of couples is an indicator of the length of a dwelling. A "bothie" was a one room hut. The sketch is from I. F. Grant's "Highland Folk Ways", page 145 (Birlinn, 1997).

The complete inventory, at Argyll and Bute Archives, is entitled "Report of the Houses of Dunad, 1798; and 1802: the Rest of the Houses on the Estates of Neill Malcolm Esq is added."

more on Arichonan

2007-08-20T13:21:00.000-07:00

From a gentleman who lives in Massachusetts: "I am related to the John Blue and Daniel Blue who you show as tenants at Arichonan in 1802. These two had a brother, Malcolm Blue, who was Tackman of Drynoch across Loch Sween from Arichonan. The three brothers and their families emigrated en mass to the USA in 1803. I have family trees and histories for these Blues if you are Interested, including some birth and death records from while John and Daniel were living in Arichonan.

also, another email, from a man in Britain, which fits in well with I.F.Grant's sketch of a 'town', below, and MacInnes' contention that Arichonan was 'anachronistic', ie, not the usual crofter community:
"Although I have done a master research degree (urban housing in Liverpool) and quite a lot of local history and vernacular architecture work, in this instance I was just totally affronted how such a beautifully wrought working village could have been cleared. This was clearly something of a different order to the clearing of single story croft houses that took place all over the highlands. The detail of the houses, barn and sheep folds show such a complete master of 'intermediate technology', exactly what was needed for getting a living in this environment." He has put up his photos here. They are very lovely.

(my website, Knapdale People, has an extensive section, with photos, on Arichonan, and also, a link that helps you order that book of mine. )

Arichonan, the Imperial context of the Clearance

2007-08-19T17:06:00.000-07:00

The Arichonan Clearance has been treated fairly extensively by University of Aberdeen's Allan I. MacInnes, in an article entitled, "Commercial Landlordism and Clearance in the Scottish Highlands: the Case of Arichonan."

Most interesting (to me) is his remark that "... Arichonan does not easily fit the traditional picture of Clearance associated in the Scottish Highlands with crofting communities, that is, communities of tenant farmers with small holdings of land. In the first place, Arichonan was a traditional township whose survival was anachronistic. Most townships had been broken up between the 1730s and the 1820s, to make way for cattle ranches and sheep walks as well as crofting communities, in what can be termed the first phase of Clearance. The second phase of Clearance from the 1830s to the 1880s is usually associated with the attempted removal of crofting, with the rampant commercial pastoralism associated with sheep farming and with the turning of whole glens over to the shooting of deer and other game." (p 49)

Check out the 2 posts and sketches below. They help to clarify what exactly MacInnes means by "town" versus "croft".... and the additional insight that Arichonan was - in 1848 - a very 'old fashioned' sort of place.

MacInnes is also very interested in the Poltalloch landowner's experience with his Jamaican plantations, and how this translated into management of his Highland estates.

Crofting Layouts

2007-08-19T16:41:00.000-07:00

Another sketch from I. F. Grant's "Highland Folk Ways" (page 63), this portrays a modern crofter settlement, strung along a road, and with land holdings demarcated. Note that the houses are no longer built in clusters, nor are they necessarily to be found by the sea.

According to A.G.M. Duncan's "Green's Glossary of Scottish Legal Terms" (3rd edition, 1992), a "croft" is "An agricultural holding of limited size located within the counties in Scotland designated as crofting counties, the tenant or crofter or his predecessors having provided the buildings and fixed equipment." The topic of "crofts" and "crofting commissions", and etc., was a huge issue in the Highlands. My impression is that it was a late 19th century attempt to establish some security of tenure for remaining Highland crofters, on land that continued to be owned by others.

A "Town"

2007-08-19T16:31:00.000-07:00

This is a sketch of a 'town' in the old style, from I. F. Grant's "Highland Folk Ways" (page 45). In 1630, according to Ms Grant, a Captain Dymes wrote of these 'towns' of joint tenants, "which towns are some half a score of cottages built together neare some piece of arable land where they make their abode in winter, for the most part of the common people in the somer they remaine in the hills to graze theire cattle."(page 44).

and then there were the parties at Auchindrain...

2007-07-21T13:30:00.000-07:00

This is a whiskey jar. Sturdy little thing, isn't it?

As to Auchindrain. Okay, I live on the other side of the world from Argyll. But I am EXTREMELY interested in that little corner of the world, so I will tell you what I think. MY suggestion would be to put the Argyll Bute Archives - with a FULL TIME archivist, by the way!!! - on the Auchendrain site. The resulting centre would, I think, work really well for the museum, and the totally marvellous records that are held by the Archives.

Auchendrain Museum: another hearth!

2007-07-21T13:27:00.000-07:00

Another hearth, this one with a chimney! and, to repeat:

"Auchindrain Museum outside Inveraray (http://www.auchindrain-museum.org.uk) is a wonderful example of a traditional farm township of the kind our forefathers inhabited and worked. Hundreds of similar townships throughout Argyll were abandoned or cleared but this little gem has survived.Please will you help to preserve this unique township by writing or emailing to the Achindrain Manager to support a bid to get Auchindrain recognised as being a Museum Collection of national significance through the Scottish Museums Council’s Significance Scheme. Letters or emails must refer to the completeness of the township and that it survived the Highland Clearances. It should also be mentioned that it was the first open air museum to open in Scotland (greatly supported by the late Miss Marion Campbell of Kilberry, an outstanding local historian) and that the original buildings are located within their original context etc etcPlease write or email to support this bid. Note that names and addresses must accompany emails to verify their provenance."

Auchindrain Museum and the Hearth Tax of 1694

2007-07-21T13:07:00.001-07:00

I want to start a section of the "poor" in my website, Knapdale People, and am currently obsessing over the 1694 Hearth Tax lists (the hearths throughout Britain were counted, reported, and the people were supposed to be taxed accordingly.) One of my conclusions has been that - in our terms - the Highlanders, even the "rich", were really really poor.

The above is an example of a hearth. The little pile of brown stuff underneath the kettle is 'peat moss'. In the absence of wood and coal, our ancestors, "rich" or "poor", used peat as their fuel, for cooking and for heat. Peat was cut out of the surface of the earth, collected and stored near the home, and dried over the summer. If the summer was particularly wet and rainy, the peat did NOT dry properly, and it was a cold cold winter.

Such a 'hearth' as you see in that Auchindrain Museum exhibit would have been situated in the centre of the home. The smoke drifted out through a hole in the roof. Over time, the house ceiling would become black with that smoke. Hence these houses were often known as "black houses."

more on Auchindrain... and weaving

2007-07-21T12:57:00.000-07:00

Among the exhibits in the museum part of Auchindrain (as opposed to the various homes on the site) is a loom. It was given to Auchindrain by the McTaggart family. This family had been weavers in Kilmory Knap since at least the early 1800s. Duncan McTaggart, 48 in the 1851 census, was called a "country weaver." His wife, born in NORTH Knapdale parish, was Janet McDougall, and he had lots of children, among whom was John (11 years old), who in 1861, when he was 21, was ALSO a weaver. According to Marion Campbell of Kilberry, who gave her heart and soul to this museum, and the history of Mid Argyll, this loom was hand made!

Auchindrain: an open air museum

2007-07-21T12:52:00.000-07:00

Yep, it is a very impressive 'museum.' This is a photo of SOME of the buildings on the site (which is, by the way, south of Inveraray, on your way to Lochgilphead, by the side of the road). The teensy green-topped hut is a "cotter's hut." When I was there I had a good time just wandering around looking inside the buildings. Each of them is furnished with items peculiar to the status of the family which lived in it. It is an incredibly vivid way to 'see' how our Scottish Highlander ancestors actually lived!

Auchendrain Museum, south of Inveraray...

2007-07-21T12:48:00.000-07:00

I received this email and want to ensure that a LOT of people interested in Knapdale know about this, and extend their help in the manner suggested:

"Auchindrain Museum outside Inveraray (http://www.auchindrain-museum.org.uk) is a wonderful example of a traditional farm township of the kind our forefathers inhabited and worked. Hundreds of similar townships throughout Argyll were abandoned or cleared but this little gem has survived.

Please will you help to preserve this unique township by writing or emailing to the Achindrain Manager to support a bid to get Auchindrain recognised as being a Museum Collection of national significance through the Scottish Museums Council’s Significance Scheme. Letters or emails must refer to the completeness of the township and that it survived the Highland Clearances. It should also be mentioned that it was the first open air museum to open in Scotland (greatly supported by the late Miss Marion Campbell of Kilberry, an outstanding local historian) and that the original buildings are located within their original context etc etc

Please write or email to support this bid. Note that names and addresses must accompany emails to verify their provenance."

Arichonan Affray and Allan McLean family

2007-07-02T14:21:00.000-07:00

It was obvious that Allan McLean and his family left North Knapdale after the July Arichonan Riot in 1848. His brother, Duncan, was one of the people imprisoned for his role in that event. Allan's wife, Catherine, was very pregnant in July, and gave birth to a child, Allan, that October.

I have been interested in the fate of this family: the Glasgow slums, Australia, Canada or the USA, Knapdalians left their homes for all of these places.

Well. I have heard from one of Allan's descendents! It seems that he and his family went to Canada in 1849. "They owned land and farmed in Ekfrid township, Middlesex County, Ontario. Once in Canada, they had two more children.* Allan died September 10, 1868, and his wife, Catherine, June 30, 1870. They are buried in a small rural cemetary called Murray Cemetary in Ekfrid township, Middlesex County, Ontario."
* (Janet, born 1851; and Daniel, born 1857.)

Arichonan and the Free Church

2007-06-09T19:00:00.000-07:00

I published a book on the 1848 Arichonan Clearance a couple of years ago. Since then, I have picked up bits of information, which I have added to the "Arichonan" section on my website.

And here is another interesting piece of information, taken from the Inveraray Jail site: of the rioters who were jailed, only Mary Adams (an eighteen year old Paisley servant working at Gallachoille farm) listed her religion as "Established Church." All of the others list themselves as members of the (relatively new) "Free Church." I am not implying that the riot was caused by a religious impulse. Consider, however, that the Landlord, Malcolm of Poltalloch, was a member of the Church of ENGLAND (not of Scotland.) The Free Church was adamantly Presbyterian, but of a more radical kind than the established Church of Scotland.

This is, in my opinion, a significant marker of the great distance that existed between tenant and proprietor.

I hope to add something about this "Free Church versus Established Church" to my website. It was of very great importance to Knapdale people in the 1840s and beyond.

on Archie Campbell of Inverneill

2007-06-08T19:26:00.000-07:00

When I first came across this guy, he was - to me - quite simply a 'laird'; he owned the estates upon which my own Knapdale ancestors lived, until they left for Canada in 1853.

But as I found more and more information about him, it turns out that he is a very interesting man, and one who was respected - and liked - by all who knew him when he was alive - even, by Americans who had been enemies of the British Empire. He was, quite simply, a very great representative of the British Empire - and of Scotland, too.

This painting, by Romney, dates from 1790, AFTER Campbell's return to Britain from Madras. One remark made by Lieut Col Ian McCulloch (Ret) is that it reflects the fact that by this time, Archie Campbell had been ill (which is why he returned to Britain). He died early in 1791.

a new feature at Knapdale People website!

2007-06-08T18:10:00.000-07:00

a whole April and then a May has gone by, and my apologies for not keeping up with this blog. However, I do have some news: I have been keeping up with the website and (mostly) completed the biography of Major General Sir Archibald Campbell of Inverneill. The most recent entry concerns this painting, one of Archie as a young man in India. I was very fortunate to have the following advice from Ian MacPherson McCulloch, Lieutenant-Colonel Commanding Officer (1993- 1996), The Black Watch (RHR) of Canada:
"Based on my limited knowledge of uniforms, including my statement upfront that what we have here is the earliest known portrait of Sir Archie, done sometime between the Seven Years War and the American Revolution. Why? The gold embroidery lace on the uniform is very similar to that found on other British officers serving with the East India Company at this time. We know that Archie served in India after the Seven Years War (did James?).
The uniform has the shoulder epauletter instead of a hanging aigulette, placing this uniform post 1768. Archie was in India in post 1768. If you look carefully at the sword knot of this officer's sword, you'll note the gold knot tied up around the hilt denoting him as the rank of captain or below. Majors and above wore their knots loose and hanging. Archie was a captain at this state in his career.
The fortress on the hill looks like it might be in India."

Donald McGilp Letters: a NEW SECTION

2007-03-28T11:31:00.000-07:00

In 1851, Donald McGilp ("McKillop"), his wife, and all of his children, left Knapdale for Canada West (now it's known as Ontario). Some letters written from his Knapdale friends and relatives survived in a small wooden box until his great great granddaughter found them and copied them. They have already been carried in the website, Kintyre Mag, but since that site is now in hiatus, I have put them up on Knapdale People. Also, I have indexed all of the people mentioned in these letters. You can find this alphabetical list at the "Donald McGilp" section in my site.

There is a lot to be said about these letters: the strong religious faith of the writers just glows in every letter. It should be remembered that this group of friends were members of the breakaway "Free Church" of Scotland, and were therefore more religiously intense than their neighbouts.... but then again, who knows?? We live in a secular age and place, and sometimes, for some people, this intensity is embarrassing, which is a pity.

There are a couple of letters from Archibald McMillan, one of Donald McGilp's many nephews. In the 1850s, he was living in Robison County, North Carolina, and he was the owner - the proud owner - of some 40 slaves. As he notes, he was now living as well as the Factor back in Knapdale. Yet, he was also a religious man. After reading these letters, there is plenty to think about and... discuss!

Note that the American Civil war was just over the horizon from these letters.

Inverneill Estate papers

2007-03-20T20:17:00.000-07:00

There is something about original documents that is fascinating... the handwriting, the casual references that are strange to our time, etc. I have a copy of some Inverneil Estate papers on microfilm, and am in the process of working through them a second time, in order to smarten up my knapdalepeople data base.

Two items have jostled their way to my attention, and it would be marvellous if someone out there has anything to say about either:
1. in determining the volume of grain, etc., owed by the tenant, the papers use "pecks" according to "Auchinbreck Measure."
and
2. the leases were (in 1819 at least) based on "... Reservations and Conditions and Regulations and Rotation of Tillage expressed and contained in .... the first BOOK OF SETS OF THE ESTATES OF TAYNISH, ULVA AND DANNA...."

Comic Books and Graphic Novels

2007-03-20T12:35:00.000-07:00

I have just returned from the San Francisco Comic Book convention. It was filled with people rummaging through vast stacks of old comic books (encased in plastic pockets, the better to preserve them for all time..); and of course, lots of people dressed up as their favorite comic character (even one who had an extremely impressive and scarey Alien costume.) There were lots of old "Classics Illustrated" comics (which I read instead of reading the book itself).

Which brings me to an important realization: there is a new kind of comic book out there, folks! No more line drawing, pale colors, or cheap paper. Today, there are "Graphic Novels". And they can be BEAUTIFUL. Check these sites for renditions of Neil Gaiman's works, and go to the mother ship of "graphic novels" at Marvel Comics.

You may have heard of the very spectacular movie about the Battle of Thermopylae, "300." It is based on Frank Miller's graphic novel, "300", published originally by Dark Horse Comics.

And how does all this relate to Knapdale? Well. Think about all the great Celtic stories and adventures, and creatures; and the wonderful art work evidenced in the "Book of Kells" (written on Iona) and the stone monuments scattered over the landscape! THIS IS THE WAY TO TEACH HISTORY, FOLKS! Somerled; the Arichonan uprising; the McLean attack on Gigha; the adventures of Major General Sir Archibald Campbell of Inverneill... and all the stories buried in 19th century books.. are just waiting for artists and publishers to start mining them.

MacSween Lords of Knapdale

2007-03-01T19:34:00.000-08:00

According to Somerled MacMillan:
'.... From the well-known Niall Glun-Dubh (Black-Knee), High King of Ireland, who was slain by the Danes in 917 AD, the descent ran -- (...to... ) Aedh Alain (Hugh Splendid) who died in 1047. Aedh Alain had a son called Dunslebhe (progenitor of the MacLays or LIVINGSTONES), and from the latter's sonSuibhne or Sween, sprang the MacSweens.

Sween's lands' were well fortified. Castle Sween dominating the western sea-board and abptly called 'the Key of Knapdale', also Skipness Castle, built by him, which dominated eastern approaches to his lands in the Barbert and Cowel areas. One of Sween's daughters married Sir Colin CAMPBELL of Loch Awe, by whom she had IVER, progenitor of the MacIvers of Asknish in Glassary, and TAVISH, progenitor of the MacTavishes of Dunardary in North Knapdale. In order to make a more powerful alliance, Campbell repudiated Sween's daughter. This naturally led to a feud between the Campbells and the MacSweens. The lady, deserted by her husband, was remarried to MacLachlan and received as a dowry from her father all his lands in Glassary, namesly DUNAAD, DUNAMUICK, AUCHENSCHOLLOCH, SHERVAIN AND BRENCHYLIES, which subsequently became the property of the MacLachlans....
(And more on this MacSween bunch tomorrow)
(Somerled MacMillan, 1960, "Families of Knapdale.")

Knapdale ancestors, booze and gambling...

2007-02-28T09:59:00.000-08:00

The Statistical Accounts for the west highland area are great reading. The writers are all local pastors, and as such as interested in the morals of the populations as they are in the plants and mountains and history of their parishes.

One thing has occurred to me, morality-wise: the comments reflect a continuing concern with the locals' over-indulgence with whiskey. The role of whiskey in the life of the Gael is well known, of course.

However, there is one human weakness NEVER mentioned by these pastors: gambling. Fighting, yes. Drunken brawls, yes. Petty crime and even major crime, yes. Immorality, yes.

But gambling, never.

I wonder why??

answering email

2007-02-28T09:57:00.000-08:00

If you have sent me any email during the past week... I haven't answered it because I cannot access my email account. I will be back at home base by the 12th of March, though. And will answer any and all requests!

Inverneill Mausoleum

2007-02-18T20:34:00.000-08:00

I have some good news about Inverneill Mausoleum (see Knapdale People Website, in the Monument Inscriptions section): it seems that the descendants of the Campbell of Inverneill family still own the mausoleum, and gather regularly to keep it in good shape.